From walking in the air to the sound of a young Aled Jones, or starring in last year's festive John Lewis advert, the UK cherishes the humble snowman as a symbol of the fun that can be had in Winter despite low tempeatures. In Zurich it's a bit different. Here, the snowman gets executed.
Instead of being allowed to gently dissolve to form a slushy puddle when the mercury in the thermometer starts to rise, he is perched upon a pyre to burn until his head, stuffed full of fireworks, explodes.
This is Sechseläuten (pronounced 'Zeks-uh-loy-ten) or, in Swiss German: 'Sächsilüüte' (zeks-uh-loot-e) and is the traditional Zurich festival for saying goodbye to the winter and welcoming spring. Celebrated on the 3rd Monday in April since the early twentieth century, it's a national holiday in the Canton of Zurich (but not elsewhere in Switzerland). Last weekend for 2013's celebrations saw glorious weather here and we were fortunate to have had my parents with us to witness this fascinating cultural event as well.
The day begins with a parade through the city by the members of the 'Zuenfte' - the old city Guilds, each with their own marching band and floats. My favourite was the 'Zunft zum Kaembel' or 'Camel Guild'. Derived from an organisation of fruit and vegetable sellers from way back when, they were dressed in arab clothing and their procession included actual camels (see pic in slide show below). I've tried to find the reason for this link with the middle east but even on their website in doesn't seem to be explained - presumably they were wheeling and dealing with tradesfolk from that part of the world to stack their own veritable Aladdin's caves here in Zurich.
The origins of the festival go back to medieval times when the first day of summer working hours was celebrated in the guildhalls across the city. Back then, the powers that be strictly regulated the length of the working day and during the winter period the workday in the various workshops lasted as long as there was daylight. During the summer months, however, the law stated that work must cease when the church bells tolled at six o'clock. Sechseläuten is Swiss-German for "The six o'clock ringing of the bells". Changing to summer working hours traditionally was a joyous occasion because it marked the beginning of the season, though the parade and snowman execution didn't begin until 1902.
The procession of guild members heads to a dedicated square next to the lake where the snowman or 'Böögg' as he is known (a bit like a bogey man - very different to Raymond Briggs' interpretation!) is perched ready to meet an explosive end.
At 6pm we, and a staggering 5000 other specatators, gathered around as the bonfire was lit. The legend has it that the quicker the fire reaches the poor fellow to blow off his head, the better the summer will be. The quickest execution on record was in 1974 when his carrot nose was sent into orbit after just over 5 minutes, indicating a scorcher of a summer on the way. The longest burning at the stake on record was 26:23 in 2001. That is, until this year.
Despite a hot sunny day, it took 35 minutes and 11 seconds for the final giant pop to indicate our bogeyman had gone to snowman heaven. This of course doesn't bode well for our first summer in der Schweiz. In fact, since the Böögg met his violent end the clear skies have been replaced by clouds. Even the UK has had better weather than us.
I'm beginning to wonder whether sacrificing Mr Snowman was such a good idea...
P.S. Just in case the spirit of winter is here to haunt us for a while I've included a few pics below from the trip we took with my folks to Luzern before the weather changed. And thanks to Dad for providing most of the below photos.
P.P.S - this YouYube video will give you a good feel for - the festivities: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQBEMWfVAuE - skip to the end for the snowman's final moments.
A coupe of weekends ago, having got ourselves unpacked, and with the weather forecast cold but clear, we decided we'd have our first mini-adventure outside of the limits of Zurich with a trip to Luzern (or Lucerne as the french swiss call it and you may know it).
Despite being only a 45 minute train ride away, Luzern delivered all that we hoped for when first getting excited about making the move to Switzerland in winter time. Built at one end of a huge crystal clear lake, Luzern is framed on all sides by beautiful snow-capped mountains.
Having got our bearings with a bracing walk around the old town we ventured out on a boat tour of the lake with a round trip to nearby Beckenreid. But this was no ordinary boat ride. This, dear readers, was
'Cake on the Lake'.
Just when we thought that things couldn't get much better than bright blue skies and mountains straight from the Toblerone packet, we settled ourselves in for a boat tour that specialises in offering all passengers a huge selection of cakes and sweet treats. On board the 'Tortenschiff' (literally cake ship) we treated ourselves to a chocolate nut brownie and a decadent slice of raspberry gateau. Ironically the 'icing on the cake' was nothing to do with cake at all and came when it emerged they served cold beer too! Though I must confess the cup of tea we had subsequently was probably better accompaniment to the baked delights.
It was a lovely day and a brilliant first real taste of the natural beauty that Switzerland offers. With Luzern such a short distance away we'll definitely be back, not least for the cakes. Enjoy the pics.
Mike Stuart moved to Switzerland in 2013 when his better half Zoë landed a job in Zurich.